When I arrived, Thierry Sabon had prepared two very long series of vintages of the cuvée tradition "Clos du Mont Olivet" and the cuvée prestige "Cuvée du Papet". Regrettably, the number of samples had to be reduced. The original and above all audacious idea of a "warm-cold" (meaning a hot vintage followed by a complicated one) proposed by the winegrower was finally adopted. A real lesson in humility when faced with the longevity of certain vintages that were not promised such a great future...
The 2012, 2010, 2006 and 2003 vintages are the work of Thierry Sabon, who officially joined the estate in 2001.
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012
Fine, fragrant nose, reminiscent of stewed strawberry, thyme, blood orange and rosebud. More of a medium-bodied wine, the pure, silky palate delivers luminous, full-bodied substance. Elegant and refined, if not overpowering. A very fine bottle to drink with pigeon or stuffed quail. 94/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
Warm, intense aromas of strawberry jam and menthol, on a slightly figgy background, are found in a delicately velvety, remarkably concentrated, warm palate that stretches out over spicy sensations. The tannins, still firm, need time... this is a young teenager who hasn't finished growing: côte de Bœuf or 10 more years in the cellar! 94-95/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
A brilliant orange color, minty, spicy nose, this 2006 displays seductive curves. Very well-balanced, with a silky touch, it's reminiscent of 2012, but with less freshness and more suavity. The citrus finish is enhanced by a hint of licorice. Sip it with a tournedos au beurre maître d'hôtel. 90/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
The orange-brown color stands out against the remarkable bouquet of Havana and dates, refreshed by an original hint of cardamom. The palate is very fine, both fresh and suave, with the luxury of a saline touch on the finish. One can imagine grilled pork. A lovely 20-year surprise, in the silky, fragrant style of the estate, which also brings to a close the "Thierry Sabon" era, which officially arrived in 2001. 93/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1999
Complex, candied, between Russian leather and the vegetal notes of cork, this wine is nevertheless tasted for its remarkable balance and the right proportions.
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1994
Evanescent color, always shiny, introducing a bouquet of Havana and buds, with some false airs of tawny port. Again, precision in a juicier, less fleshy style. Saddle of lamb and candied fruit. 90/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1990
The deeper color echoes the powerful, penetrating bouquet of sandalwood and eucalyptus. On the palate, the wine is both dense and suave, almost reminiscent of an old Hermitage. The fruit in brandy, with a hint of pepper, that would probably go well with a boeuf bourguignon... Thierry's father compared this wine to the 1978 in terms of potential, and it seems to be heading in that direction. 96/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1984
Now that's what you call a bad vintage! And yet, 40 years later, even if the wine shows a few signs of fatigue, you find yourself loving it and savoring it effortlessly. A simple terrine with morel mushrooms, to recapture the history of the vintage. 89/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1978
An anecdote that sums up this monument: Thierry's grandfather, Joseph Sabon, had already retired in 1978, so it was his sons who vinified this great vintage... But hearing the rave reviews from customers, he couldn't help but take credit for it! A weakness we're happy to forgive 45 years later. With its youthful color, peppery and fresh vegetal aromas and cigar in the background, the wine gently awakens. At once full-bodied and airy, silky and dense, it surprises with its brilliance, its saline, salivating length, where a hint of gourmet caramel summons the table. Meat in its simplest form to underline the wine. 98/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuvée du Papet: first produced in 1989 (along with the cuvée centenaire of Domaine André Brunel and the cuvée Générations Gaston-Philippe of Château La Gardine), the flagship of the estate, made only in great vintages from very old Grenache vines (dating back to 1901) supplemented with Mourvèdre and/or Syrah.
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Papet 2012
Between strawberry and raspberry, the highly concentrated nose evokes the finest aromas of just-ripe Grenache. Concentration and precision are evident in this warm, yet delicate wine. An unequivocally fine wine, with good cellaring potential. 95/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Papet 2010
It's all here: concentration and floral notes, density and balance, long-lasting finish, with luminous fruit that's never heady. An idea of perfection. For posterity. 99-100/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Papet 2006
Gourmet, slightly roasted nose "à la bourguignonne", conical palate, always very balanced, rather light in the series, but very harmonious. The juicy, tannic finish speaks volumes about the wine's potential, even if it's already a treat with a beef onglet. 94-95/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Papet 2003
Mourvèdre, increased by 10% this year, gives a more vinous, Provençal consistency. Tapenade, menthol and a hint of game enliven a concentrated, precise, long and juicy palate. A lovely wine. 93/100
Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Papet 1990
A ruby color in the center of the disk, a pinot bouquet, it's hard to believe that this wine is 30 years old... Except for a few toasty notes that quickly mar this ephemeral youth. On the palate, the smoothness of the Grenache has its effect, with finesse taking precedence over power. It's a beautiful wine, even if we have our doubts about the slightly too advanced evolution of this mythical bottle.
The other vertical tastings HERE